LEARNING THE JIG -WHEN, WHERE AND HOW

 

       "This is my standard jig set up and it covers most of the bases. A black/blue 3/8oz Riverside jig with a Yum jig chunk. Note the piece of plastic worm put on the hook prior to the chunk, the trimmed weed guard and the place the chunk is hooked. This is the best set up for keeping the chunk straight on the hook during presentation".

For many years and many reasons, the jig is my favorite bait for catching big bass. There is no more versatile bait out there. It is simple, and works in about any place and any time of year. Learning to use a jig is critical to having a full arsenal of productive tactics. If you’re learning to use a jig, here are the basics that will get you hooked on jig fishing.

First things first - Make sure you commit to learning the jig, and develop a plan that will allow you time in the right areas to practice the techniques. Be prepared mentally for fewer bites prior to going out, but also be prepared for possibly hooking into a big fat momma pig bass, one you won’t forget.

CHOOSING A JIG -

Size / Weight - Keep it simple. The prime depth range for a jig is 1 to 10 feet, so start by choosing a 3/8 to ½ oz jig that will cover water in that depth range. A 3/8 oz jig will cover about 90% of applications. Choose a couple of head styles, a bullet head for grass and a rounded head for wood and rock. If you plan to throw a jig in very thick grass, you do need to have a couple bullet head jigs in the 3/4 to 1+ ounce range to get through the cover. For wood, rock, docks and even scattered grass and pads, 3/8 to ½ will do it all.

Hook - Any quality hook is fine. A 3/8oz jig with a 4/0 round bend hook is what I prefer. In heavy grass jigs I like the 5/0 hooks.

Color - I’ve fished jigs for many years, and I keep two colors. Black and blue will work about anywhere. Nobody knows why, so the reason black and blue is so productive is not important. Just make sure you have that color. Green pumpkin or brown is also good, so any jig in that shade will be productive. It’s not so much style and color that makes a jig work, it’s location and presentation.

Weedguard - Here is another Ford vs Chevy issue. I prefer to keep the weed guard trimmed just above the point, and unless the cover is very heavy, I will thin out some of the guard pieces to make it easier for bass to compress the weedguard. I make sure I work the weedguard and spread it out, making sure it is flexible and has no paint, etc on it prior to throwing a jig.

Chunk / Trailer - No need to get to fancy here either. Choose a chunk that matches you jig color, and a size that matches the rate of fall you prefer. Big chunks slow the fall and smaller chunks allow the bait to fall faster. If you are targeting bass in the 1 to 3 pound range, the smaller chunks will get more bites. I prefer the Yum jig chunks with the claw cut on the trailer. I always thread a small piece of plastic worm on the hook shank to prevent the trailer or chunk from sliding down the shank and fowling. Hook the chunk toward the front and in the center. It’s a big debate, but I prefer to hook the chunk fatty side up, or the hook point goes in the skin side first. I hook the chunk as far forward as possible, making it less likely for the chunk to "spin" and foul on the hook.

Rod/reel - A quality graphite rod with a fast tip is important. Sensitivity is critical. 6'6" or 7' will cover about all applications. I prefer St Croix Avid series rods, and a 7' medium heavy is what I use most of the time. I do prefer a high-speed reel when jig fishing.

Line - I prefer mono when jig fishing, as I normally fish the jig close to the boat. In thin cover #15-lb may be fine, but I prefer at least #17-lb test and up to #25-lb test in heavy cover. You want a line that does NOT have a lot of memory. Memory makes detecting strikes difficult. My preference is Silver Thread AN-40.

WHEN -

The best time to learn to use a jig is anytime bass become active in shallow water. As soon as they move up on pre-spawn and all the way through summer can be productive. There are always active bass somewhere in shallow water when the surface temps are between 50 and 90 degrees. If I had to choose a "best" time to learn I’d choose the mid-spring when there are bass in all three stages of the spawn (pre, during and post). Anytime the water is stained, the sun is up, or the bite is tough on other presentations is the right time to throw a jig. It is a great big fish producer during mid-day hours.

WHERE - The jig is a target bait. Look for targets bass are using as cover, such as stumps, laydowns, rocks, grass patches, pads etc. If you’re just learning, pick a lake that has shallow cover and target that cover during times when bass are active in shallow water. If you present the jig right, you will get bit, and it could be big. If the water has some stain or the cover is very heavy, you can get very close to the fish. Clear water means you need to keep the boat off the cover farther. Look for creeks and shallow pockets that have an old channel or a place where water comes into. Most of these can be seen on a map. Creeks and pockets are good places to start because there is usually a variety of situations to fish. If you think the fish are deeper, start in the mouth of the creek on the points, and target the cover there. If the fish are shallow start in the back of the creek and target the cover, working out toward the mouth and deeper water. Where to fish a jig depends on the pattern the fish are on, and it takes some adjustment through the day to get on the right patterns. Areas shaded by over hanging cover are good places, such as steep banks with over hanging trees. Bass will get in the shade of cover on sunny days, and a jig will get them out.

Jigs also work well in areas you would use a Carolina rig or Texas rig. Ledges, drops or open water humps with cover are great areas to work a jig for some big bites. 

HOW - O.K., you’ve got a black and blue 3/8oz jig, you’ve rigged it with a matching chunk, you have your #17-lb line and a good 6'6" or 7' Med Heavy to Heavy rod, you’re in your boat, you’re on a lake that has some stain in the water, has some cover and should have some shallow bass. You’ve found a good creek or bank with wood or grass cover, now what?

Fish close, if you know how to pitch then start by pitching. Otherwise make short throws in and around the cover, working the jig back just past the cover. It’s quite simple, and 90% of the strikes will come on the initial fall.

Be ready, when you throw or pitch, keep the rod tip high as the bait enters the water, and follow it down with a semi-slack line and your hand on the reel handle ready to pick up slack and set the hook. Sometimes bass hit the jig before it gets ½ way to the bottom, and can spit it out before you ever feel them. If the jig hits the bottom, work it slowly through the cover as you would a plastic worm, maybe with a little more hopping action. Make several throws past and do the cover, changing angles each time. Fish in really heavy stuff, brush, grass, where ever there is room for them to hide in shallow water.

On deeper banks or steeper drops, throw the jig and work it back by just lifting the rod tip and letting it fall back to the bottom on the semi-slack line. Anytime you feel the jig has weight, or feel a slight bump - SET THE HOOK.

Don’t be afraid to get super shallow. If there is heavy cover, big bass can be in 2 feet of water and often will be, especially if there is deep water close by. They are often not as spooky as many people would believe. I’ve caught my share of big bass right under the boat. Keep moving, and keep trying different types of cover at different locations till you find the right combination.

Anytime you feel the jig has weight, or feel a slight bump - SET THE HOOK. When you do get a strike, set as soon as you feel it. Bass don’t chew their way to the hook, they eat the whole thing in one bite, so don’t wait. It is also important to use some control when setting the hook on a jig. Pick up the slack and then, a good, firm sweep is all that is needed if you have a good hook. Setting too hard, especially on a short line can result in a break-off or tearing the jig from the mouth of the fish.

Finally - Stay confident, those of us who use jigs regularly are not lying when we say they work. There is no real secret, and it’s almost so easy that most people make it harder than it really is. Take some time to learn the jig, and add it to your arsenal of big fish producers.



Troy Jens
Troy's Pro Guide Service
http://www.AnglingAlabama.com

 

 

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